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Summit climb recap

2011-10-14T20:14:00.003-05:00

I am finally home in Lincoln after a magnificent trip and climb.

After a false start in late September which we aborted due to too much snow, we sat at base camp in miserable weather for several days. Things finally cleared up, but we needed to both wait for the new snow to consolidate and for an appropriate good weather window. Phil decided things were good for an October 1 departure with an October 5 summit. Eight of the team members left on 10/1, but I and Anne-Marie waited to the 2nd and went directly to Camp 2, thus avoiding an extra night up high with it's associated lack of sleep and food. The tradeoff is that you are pushing yourself harder. Fortunately the plan paid off and we spent a total of 6 hours and 50 minutes climbing vs 12 hours total when we weren't very acclimated two weeks prior. The weather was quite warm and I climbed in shirt sleeves.

I slept pretty well, but food was still a big problem. I lost most of my breakfast. The climb on 10/3 to C3 only took 2:20. The snow looked ripe for skiing! We hung out in our tent all day (my teammate on the mountain is a friend from the Czech Republic named Karel Masek. I met him last year on Everest.) which we shared with Pasang Gombu Sherpa. He made water and generally helped us, along with being a fun companion.

The next day we headed up to C4. This was described to us as being not much harder than the C2-C3 day. I doubted this for several reasons and boy was I right (unfortunately!). The climb seemed endless, was very cold and at times was very steep. I was wearing ski boots and my feet became very cold. Two times I stopped, took them off and warmed them by putting them into either Karel's or Pasang's jackets under there arms. Yes, not something you relish, but when you are desperate... I thought I had them under control, but then in a very tough, steep area we found ourselves caught behind a very slow Japanese lady and my feet got too cold. I was desperate to warm up and finally took a chance, unclipped from the fixed rope, pulled out and passed about 7 people. I finally started to warm up, but it took a huge amount of my reserve. Upon finally arriving at C4, I vomited again. During the night I coughed so hard that I vomited again.

We were scheduled to head for the summit at midnight, but it was very windy and the group all felt we should wait. Things improved at daybreak and everyone but me left around 6 am. I decided to wait till 8 in light of my cold feet issues. (Mountaineering boots are dramatically warmer than my ultra lightweight ski-mountaineering boots). Pasang Gombu and I took off, but it was very slow going. I decided that now that I was wearing my down suit and was using oxygen, my feet would be okay. The problem would be that we may not have enough time, especially if the weather started to change.

Pasang Gombu (PG as I nicknamed him) carried a second oxygen bottle for me plus my extra water and also my skis - I did carry them up to C4! - and yet I couldn't go as fast as him, this in spite of him not using oxygen. The Sherpa people are truly super men at altitude.

After two hours, my hypoxic brain is doing the math and I realize we won't reach the top till 4 or 5 pm, much too late to be safe. I gambled and had PG crank up the flow rate from 2.5 liters per minute to 4 lpm. Immediately I was going faster; almost double the rate of ascent. It seems like my body requires oxygen!

Doubts would come and go as I watched the time vs my altitude. At one point, a member of the team that left a 6 am gave up and this almost caused me to return, but I decided to not turn back until 2:30, weather permitting. About 600' below the summit I found two of our team rescuing a stranger who had collapsed and lain in the snow for perhaps an hour or more. We later learned more about this ego-maniac and I will tell you more later. Anyway, Anne-Marie gave him an injection of dexamethasone directly through his down pants (we all carried this medicine, she was the only team member not using oxygen but is a professional marathoner). Ian gave up his own oxygen tank and mask and went down without it. This is highly dangerous as his body was depending on it and the shock of suddenly losing your oxygen can kill you. Greater love hath no man than to lay down his own life. Truly an amazing thing to watch.

Anyway, all that drama ended well and PG and I hit the afterburners and went as fast as we could for the summit. We were blessed with unbelievable weather and reached the final short ridge at 2:25. Another small gamble and we went up the final 15 minutes thus breaking my 2:30 rule. We savored our summit. I felt like crying. We took pictures. We were overwhelmed by the beauty. For about ten minutes we were the two highest people on the planet, not counting airplane passengers.

We couldn't push our luck any more so we started down. PG had left my skis about 50' below the summit and with enormous difficulty I put them on and headed down. The snow was mostly rock hard, some ice, lots of wind ridges, breakable crust and a tiny bit of avalanche debris. Not good when you can breathe, really tough when you can't. It was also very steep in places and of course you need to be aware of crevasses. I needed one hour to get to C4 2,800' below.

I rested and tried to eat for an hour and decided to carry my skis down the dangerous part on the way to C3 and then light permitting, ski to C2. I was so tired and slow that it was well and truly dark by the time I hit the skiable portion and I walked all the way to C2. I slept pretty well and headed down again at 7 the next day. I skied part of the way to C1, but down climbed much of it. I was really beat. I then skied all the way from C1 to crampon point (the place where the snow and ice ends and you remove your crampons). I put my skis on my pack and slowly walked down the rocky trail to our base camp, completely used up.

During these five days, I vomited four times, ate one cup of soup, 1/4 of a freeze dried dinner and perhaps 4 or 5 candy bars. I drank maybe five liters of water in total. Towards the end I went almost 24 hours without going to the bathroom. I was so thirsty my tongue hurt, yet I couldn't eat or drink other than in tiny portions.

Five of our team turned back anywhere from C2 to above C4 for various reasons. Karel who summited Everest last year says he would rather climb Everest 10 times than Manaslu once because it was so hard. I don't know if his memory is faulty, but it is an indication of the difficulties involved.

I know all of this doesn't sound like fun, but somehow it all is good and I had a wonderful trip. Your brain has a way of minimizing the pain and maximizing the pleasure. The beauty was inspiring, the group got along very well and our base camp was about as good as you could reasonably expect in such a high, remote location. Phil was an amazing leader.

On 10/7 we walked down to the village of Sama Goan and then this morning we got up early and caught three helis to Kathmandu. I was able to claim the co-pilot seat and had a wonderful ride. After 42 minutes of flying we were in Kathmandu. Twenty minutes later, Karel and I walked into the Hyatt to take full advantage of their all-you-can-eat breakfast. We made it like our climb with the first trip through being base camp, the second trip being Camp 1, etc. BC, C1, all the way to the summit meant six laps through with a full plate each time. We were hurting after that, but were so craving good, tasty food after 37 days away from civilization and 28 days at or above 16,000'.

I enjoyed Kathmandu from 10/8 to 10/12 roaming the streets of Thamel, buying a few pieces of art and some gifts and doing what I can do to help Lhakpa Gurung (my daughter Soni's half-sister) who has some serious problems with her eyes. We also enjoyed some fantastic meals. Kathmandu is unlike any other place in the world and I love the place. It is exciting, fun and there are a million things to do.

My tent at Base Camp

Base Camp

Manaslu

Preparing to ski down after first acclimatization trip to Camp 1

View from Camp 2

Snow at Camp 1 on first failed summit bid

View down the valley from Base Camp

Manaslu from crampon point on a rest day

Anne-Marie and I about to leave for our summit bid

Looking at Camp 3 from C2

Camp 3

On the fixed ropes between Camp 3 and C4

Pasang Gombu with my skis on summit day

The final few feet to the summit

Trying (but failing!) to look cool for my summit photo

Pasang Gombu at the summit

Getting ready to ski down to Camp 4 from just below the summit

Back at Base Camp after summiting. I was exhausted.

Saying goodbye to Pasang Gombu on October 7

Our climbing Sherpa crew. What a bunch of amazing athletes!

Sunrise on Manaslu, taken from Sama Goan

Refueling at the Roadhouse Cafe in Kathmandu

Mark D., Karel, Mark H., Steve and me in Kathmandu

Hanging out with Lhakpa in the hotel's courtyard.

Patty was able to change my flights and get me home almost two weeks early. I'm now enjoying all the comforts of being home with Patty and catching up with her and my friends. Thanks for following along.

2011-10-06T02:01:00.001-05:00

Nepal 2011 Manaslu, Patty's Report 3

I am very happy to report that Robert and Pasang Gumpa Sherpa reached the summit of Manaslu at approximately 2 p.m. on October 5 Kathmandu time. The report of success was posted about three hours ago. Robert does not have access to a sat phone or Internet at this time. The report also said that Robert and his climbing partner, Pasang Gumba Sherpa, have now descended to Camp 2 and would rest there then continue back to base camp in the morning.

I am waiting to hear more details directly from Robert. The altitudejunkies.com web site has a longer narrative if you are interested.

Thanks for all those prayers and for arm chair traveling with me!
Patty

2011-10-02T23:04:00.000-05:00

Nepal 2011 Manaslu Patty's Report 2

Robert is on his way to a summit bid, and if the weather cooperates this time, he plans to reach the top on October 5th. There will not be Internet or Satellite phone availability so I will write again when I have news.

2011-09-24T09:54:00.001-05:00

Nepal 2011, Manaslu Patty's Report 1

Hi Everyone,

This is Patty Kay, Robert's wife. I am happy to be reporting from the flat land. It is a clear sunny day in Nebraska but I cannot say the same for Manaslu, Nepal. Robert called this morning to tell me that his team is back at BC. They descended from C1 after the snow started falling heavily at higher elevations. C2 has about 18 inches of fresh snow and there is danger of avalanche at C2 down to C1. Robert called from the satellite phone to give me this report from BC. It is now snowing at BC and there is no sign of the sun. He is snug in his tent all safe, warm and dry. The battery power is low on the sat phone so the call was short and therefore I do not have any more information for you.

I hope to have a report of sunny skies for Manaslu tomorrow with a revised plan for a summit attempt.

With kind regard,
Patty Kay
Your fellow arm chair traveler

2011-09-22T20:16:00.000-05:00

Nepal 2011, Manaslu, Journal Entry 8

After sitting around base camp for days in a never-ending rain and mist, we awoke this morning to sunshine. It was a huge boost to all of our outlooks. This morning Phil (expedition leader) received his weather report from Michael Fagan in the US and it is a pretty good forecast with low winds (less than 20 mph on the summit), temps around 0 Fahrenheit and very little snowfall. Phil says that Manaslu weather is typically pretty stormy and his experience shows that it is always wise to take the first weather window available and not count on a second opportunity. With all this in mind, we have jointly decided to head for the summit tomorrow - Friday the 23rd. It will be tough because we have only had about two weeks to acclimatize vs the six or more weeks you take on Everest. Manaslu is 2,200' lower and has very easy exit possibilities if one runs into trouble.

We will leave base camp after lunch and go to Camp 1. We will climb to C2 on Saturday, C3 on Sunday and C4 on Monday. We will then attempt the summit on Tuesday, leaving around midnight on Monday night. The idea is to arrive at the summit shortly after sunrise. I am counting on needing nine hours to reach the top, giving us plenty of time to descend to at least C2. I am hoping to ski from just below the summit, although it sounds like the C4 to C3 portion must be down climbed. I have seen C3 to C2 and it looks like great skiing.

We will have the opportunity to try again if we are unsuccessful, but I have high hopes for a good climb. I know from past experienced that eating and sleeping will be my two biggest challenges and I am bringing up a good variety of food in hopes of finding something that I can swallow.

Phil has made loose arrangements for a smaller helicopter to fly us out in groups of three from the small village of Sama Goan back to Kathmandu after the climb, so if things go well I could be back in civilization some time around October 1 which would be great.

I will email again once I am down from my summit attempt, hopefully with good news of success.

Thanks for reading,
Robert

2011-09-20T21:08:00.000-05:00

Nepal 2011, Manaslu, Jounal Entry 7

We have had virtually non-stop rain and drizzle since we returned from C2 and it leaves one feeling quite cold most of the time. We had a lot of rain before the rotation up high, but this seems worse. Everything is damp all the time.

This morning after breakfast I took a walk with Steve, one of the clients from Massachusetts, up to the crampon point. This walk has taken me 45 minutes to an hour in the past and today I only needed 35 minutes, although I wasn't carrying a pack so that helped speed things up.

I am feeling well, no illness, although I am quite bored a lot of the time. I read, do crossword puzzles and Sudokus as well as talk with people and think about the upcoming climb. Phil correctly believes we need more time acclimatizing before we make a summit bid. some of the other teams, especially Himex, are planning to leave for the summit in a few days, weather permitting, but they arrived here a week or more before us. If I had my druthers, I would wait at least another 8 to 10 days before heading for the summit. Time will tell what we do.

I hope all is well with you,
Robert

2011-09-19T12:34:00.000-05:00

Nepal 2011 Manaslu, 8th highest peak in the world
Journal Entry 6

We have just returned from our first trip to Camp 2. The Base Camp to Camp 1 portion was done on Friday and wasn't too hard. I spent 3 1/2 hours and the climb is about 2,800 feet. Typical for me, I didn't sleep well and had a hard time eating.

Saturday was a whole different story in spite of the climb only being 2,000 feet. The climb was very steep up a number of fixed lines and also wandered around some big crevasses and seracs. I was hungry and dehydrated and that didn't help. It was just a tough day. I worked at it for 6 1/2 hours and was truly spent upon arrival. Fortunately my tent mate had made a freeze dried meal and I ate my portion and later had two cups of soup. I still went to bed hungry but unable to eat or drink anything more. I tossed and turned all night with periodic breathing and a headache. To top it off, I woke up at 3 a.m. to make a hasty exit out of the tent to throw up. Not good! Everyone else was suffering so we cancelled a planned "touch and go" to Camp 3 and came back to base camp.

I have left my skis at Camp 2 and intend to continue carrying them up as we make our summit bid, very tentatively scheduled for some time around the end of the month, weather depending.

Now that we are back at base camp (a "mere" 16,000 feet), I am feeling great and eating and drinking to make up for the last two days.

Climbing the 8th highest peak in the World, Manaslu, Nepal

2011-09-17T11:45:00.001-05:00

My trip to climb the world's 8th highest peak, Manaslu in Nepal.

Journal Entry 1 August 29/30, 2011

Hello Family and Friends,

The preparation is now over and I am about to board my plane for Hong Kong and then on to Kathmandu. This has been a very hectic and life-changing week for our family. Our oldest is a college senior and has moved into his first apartment with friends. Our youngest will begin her freshman year in residence on campus. Both attend university in San Diego. It is a big change, having an empty nest.

This morning Patty and Chris drove with me to San Juan Capistrano to meet two great friends from my Everest trip, John and Ryan Dahlem. I watched John give a very moving Everest talk to a local high school football team and then we traveled to the Dahlem's home where his wife, Sioux, welcomed us with a beautiful dinner. After a relaxing evening they drove me to the airport where we said our goodbyes.

I spent several hours at the airport finishing up some final loose ends from work and now the airline is announcing that I need to board the flight. (It is now almost 1 a.m. PDT.) This is one of the times of my long trips where I always have very mixed emotions. On the one hand I'm excited for the upcoming adventure, but on the other I am sad to leave my family and will worry about them until I'm back home again.

Stay well and be safe,
Robert

Journal Entry 2 August 30, 2011
I am in Hong Kong now. I had a nice flight and was able to sleep lying down flat for eight hours. I feel remarkably well. The food and service was outstanding. I will spend most of the 8+ hour layover time completing obligations for work.

Journal Entry 3 August 31, 2011
I arrived in Kathmandu on time last night, whistled through first in line for immigration, which is fantastic. Kathmandu's airport is pretty slow and disorganized and I have stood in line for an hour on previous trips. My bags arrived soon after, I found my driver as I exited the airport. Since it was both a holiday and late at night, there was almost no traffic. Phil Crampton, our expedition leader, met me at the hotel where we sat chatting less than an hour after my plane first touched down. This must be some kind of record.

Journal Entry 4, September 1, 2011
I love Kathmandu. It is as exciting as ever. I walked around a little this morning getting in the swing of things, caught up on my work obligations and now I will be handling a few last minute errands for the climb.
Phil Crampton is very nice and a competent leader for our trip. During our conversation I learned that he is from England, but lives in New York. He has owned a restaurant there for 15 years and believes that quality food is critical to the success of a climb and I whole heartedly agree. Here's hoping we eat well!
Thanks for following along.

Journal Entry 5, September 14, 2011
BASE CAMP
Well, after much effort by several of the team members plus Phil Crampton, we finally have a working Internet connection and some battery power. Base camp is very well set up although it has been very cloudy, foggy, and rainy.

We began our trek to BC with a very bumpy ride and then a hike that was virtually unbearable. It was super hot and humid. I couldn't drink enough liquids and was very dehydrated for six days. I am much better now that we are in a cooler place.

Yesterday we did a carry up to Camp 1 and it was quite a long day. BC is at 16,000' and C1 is at 18,700'. I made the trip in just under five hours, and was able to skin 2/3 of it. As I skied down the top section was very nice, but the lower section was horrible - hard and icy mounds everywhere, lots of crevasses to avoid, with mud and rocks on the snow, etc.

Tomorrow we are heading to C1 to sleep and then to C2 the following day. The third day we will be able to do a "touch and go" to C3 and then descend all the way to BC. That will be a long day!

Be safe,
Robert

Heading to Nepal for a climb of Manaslu

2011-08-30T23:53:00.002-05:00

I have not given up on my quest to climb Mt Everest, and as a result I decided it would not only be good practice and experience to do another big mountain beforehand, but it would also be good for my confidence. So, I am signed up for a climb of Manaslu which at about 26,800 feet is the eighth highest peak in the world. It is in Nepal between Kathmandu and the Annapurna region.

Our family spent the last few days in San Diego getting both of our kids organized to start university there and then on Monday Patty drove me to San Juan Capistrano to meet John Dahlem a friend from last year's Everest climb who then took me to his home for a great meal with his wife Sioux and then on to LAX later in the evening.

Thanks to tons of frequent flyer miles, I flew first class to Hong Kong where I am right now and later this afternoon I head to Kathmandu, arriving at 10:15 pm. I love Kathmandu and Nepal and am excited to return. It is a very fun and vibrant place that everyone owes to themselves to experience.

I will be climbing with Altitude Junkies and one of my team mates (Karel Masek) was with me on Everest last year. Both of us are bringing ski equipment and are hoping to find a few safe turns somewhere on the mountain.

Patty will be updating the blog for me as I either call or send her short emails using the group's sat phone and satellite internet connection.

Back home in Nebraska

2010-06-20T22:57:00.002-05:00

I am happy to report that I am finally back home in Nebraska. Patty and the kids met me in Perth, Australia where we enjoyed a week of seeing the local sights, eating fish and chips on the beach and catching up with friends and family.

From there we flew to Sydney to spend time with more family and also to climb Mt Kosciuszko which is Australia's highest peak. I reached the summit with Patty, my kids, my cousin Wesley and his son. It was a really fun day hike and it was especially nice to do it with so much of my family. That evening we went out for a wonderful celebratory meal.

We spent several days poking around Sydney, Soni took a surfing lesson and then we flew home arriving late at night on Wednesday the 16th. Normally I don't suffer much from jet lag, but this time I am struggling a bit to get onto local time. It is great to be home, sleep in my own bed, eat Patty's cooking, be back at work and just be normal again.

Thanks to everyone for following along with my journey. I plan to do a slide show at some time in the near future, so check back every now and then for a posting with the time and place. Namaste!

2010-05-27T12:13:00.001-05:00

2010-05-27T12:11:00.001-05:00

2010-05-27T12:07:00.001-05:00

2010-05-27T11:51:00.001-05:00

Back to Kathmandu

2010-05-27T09:17:00.002-05:00

Hi to all my friends and family,

I am safely back in Kathmandu today after an early morning heli ride from base camp to Lukla and a plane ride from Lukla to Kathmandu. In 120 minutes I was transported from a land of thin air, ice, snow, and rock, with overnight temps of perhaps 15 degrees, to a bustling city, green plants, and warm temps. It was so nice to take my first proper bath in 56 days and to truly enjoy food again.

As most of you know by now, I was unsuccessful in my thirty-plus year dream of climbing Mt Everest. I gave it everything I had, but was not willing to sacrifice my life nor my Sherpas' eyesight to stand on top. Our highly paid (but not worth it) weather forecaster in Washington State gave us the green light to make a summit bid. We left Camp 4 at 8 pm in cold temps, light snow, and light winds. The forecast was for the snow and wind to stop by 10 pm.

I reached a landmark called The Balcony at 27,600 feet by 2 am in a full-on blizzard. The temps were well below zero. The winds were 30-40 mph and gusting higher. The wind-driven swirling snow and ice pellet mix, along with traveling at night, made the going very difficult. My goggles iced up on the inside and I was unable to clear them. Neither Nima Nuru, my guide for the trip, nor Ungalay, my porter, had goggles. Their eyes were freezing up.

I was virtually blind from the iced goggles and fell, three times, off a narrow ridge line about 200 feet higher than The Balcony. Thank God, I fell off its safer left side. That is the point when I decided it was too risky. There was a cornice on the right. The drop off, of unknown distance, was in the area that is perhaps 10,000 feet to 11,000, feet almost straight down to the bottom into Tibet. That's when I made the decision to turn around.

Although I failed to summit, it was still a fantastic trip. We had a great group of extremely strong climbers and very strong, capable guides. We saw unimaginably beautiful scenery, met fantastic people, and went to places most people can't even imagine. We suffered, ate horrible food, looked terrible, and smelled even worse. I have only dressed while lying down in my tent for six weeks, and have worn the same clothes for weeks on end. I've had days of waiting in boredom followed by days of working as hard as I am physically capable. I missed my family and friends terribly, but still it was all worth it. At this point I don't think I will attempt Everest again, although that thought will no doubt be a challenged as time goes by.

My primary guide was a Sherpa, Nima Nuru. He was one of the most patient, kind, helpful, and hard working people I think I have ever met. He would do anything I asked of him and tons of things I never even dreamed of asking him to do. Even on our last day coming down from Camp 2 to Base Camp, he insisted on carrying a bunch of my gear. My pack was perhaps 35 pounds, his was at least 75 pounds. I was so tired I could hardly walk down the mountain. He would stop at every single rope (and there were dozens and dozens of them) and pick them up for me to clip into. By the way, he is probably 5'6" and 130 pounds. When we reached camp, I learned that I probably had 2 hours to pack before the heli arrived. Nima came to my tent and helped me pack. The heli didn't arrive until the next morning, but Nima was still willing to help no matter what.

I guess that is enough for now. I need to meet some of the team members for dinner and I need to eat! I lost at least 20 pounds and don't recognize myself in the mirror. I'll send some pictures tomorrow.

Thanks,
Robert

P.S. This letter was sent via e-mail to Patty on May 26 at 7 a.m. The posting time is about 27 hours later. Robert has probably eaten several tasty meals and is ready for a good night's rest. It is Thursday night in Kathmandu.

Base Camp

2010-05-25T14:50:00.002-05:00

Robert is at base camp and is planning to heli out tomorrow morning to Lukla and then on to Kathmandu by plane.

His plans are to "get warm and eat some nice food". He has had enough cold and snow for this year. We had snow on the ground in Nebraska for 6 months this winter. He left before it was gone and has spent the month of April and most of May above tree line. That makes 8 months of white and gray.

He will call with more details this evening, which is tomorrow morning there. If the weather clears and there is a heli available, he will be flying before noon.

Safe at Camp 2

2010-05-24T09:29:00.004-05:00

Robert has safely returned to Camp 2 with Nima and his Sherpa porter. The four fastest from his group were above the storm when it hit. They reached the summit and are now making their way back to Camp 4. The others from his group that were below the storm have returned to Camp 2.

Weather was the main factor for the termination of the summit attempt. Although Robert is sad about the failure, he knows he made the correct decision. No matter how well one has prepared, the variable of weather can be the undoing of even the most experienced expedition team's goal.

Robert will be hiking down to Camp 1 and then on to Base Camp. He, with others, will hire a heli to get them and their gear back to Kathmandu.

Thanks for following along with me. I am sure Robert will have a lengthy post for us in the near future.

Weather Problems: Summit Attempt Cancelled

2010-05-23T19:25:00.002-05:00

Robert has called from Camp 4. After several grueling hours of climbing he made the decision to descend. The weather conditions are abominable. The temperature is about -15 degrees Fahrenheit. An ice and snow mix propelled by 30 to 40 mph winds made visibility close to zero. The climb was too dangerous to continue.

Robert's goggles were iced up and he couldn't see the drop offs. His Sherpa guides did not have goggles and so were not any better off than he. Robert was concerned that their eye sight might be damaged by the strong force of the wind mixed with snow and ice.

He is now in his tent trying to warm up by wearing his down suit inside his sleeping bag. Everything is iced over.

He will call again after a rest.

Camp 4

2010-05-23T08:23:00.003-05:00

Robert called at 2 a.m. cdt and reported that he had reached Camp 4. The climb was difficult and he sounded a bit out of breath but at that altitude anyone would be! He rested for a while and called me again at 8:15 a.m. cdt to tell us that the summit attempt will begin in about an hour. He also said that we should not expect a blog report for at least 12 hours, maybe longer.

Time to pray some more.

Thanks for following along. I will report again as I hear from Robert.

Camp 4 and the Everest Summit in

2010-05-23T08:23:00.000-05:00

Camp 2 to Camp 3

2010-05-21T21:32:00.002-05:00

Robert spent two days at Camp 2 and is now at Camp 3. It took him only 4 hours to make the trip. His daily workout sessions at the gym are really paying off.

He is feeling great and the weather is good so they will leave for Camp 4 early on Sunday and make the summit attempt after a rest at Camp 4.

Robert is more and more excited as he anticipates reaching his goal in the very near future.

Camp 1, On the Way to the Top

2010-05-19T08:06:00.003-05:00

Robert has reached Camp 1. He had no trouble on this leg of the journey.

The weather is an important variable. He reports that the wind is very strong and gusty. Also, there is a possibility of a monsoon on the 26th. Base Camp got 6 feet of snow the last time a monsoon hit!

Robert's plan is to summit, possibly on the 24th, and return to base camp as quickly as he can. There are six in the group that are trying to arrange for a helicopter to pick them up at base camp. This would save a 3 day hike back down the mountain.

Always an adventure...more later.

The Summit Plan

2010-05-17T20:34:00.004-05:00

Robert texted this tentative itinerary to me this afternoon and asked that I forward it to you.

Nima and I leave at 4 a.m. on 5/19 and climb 5-6 hours through the icefall to Camp 1
5/20 We climb about 2 1/2 hours to Camp 2.
5/21 We climb 7-9 hours to Camp 3, up the Lhotse Face. This is an exhausting day. We sleep on oxygen at Camp 3 and above.
5/22 We climb 5-6 hours to Camp 4, the South Col, rest about 8 or 9 hours and then we leave at 8 p.m. for the summit.
5/23 It will take me 9-12 hours to reach the top and another 4-5 hours to return to Camp 4. I may then go on to Camp 2 if I feel up to it.

It's A Go!

2010-05-16T14:58:00.003-05:00

The guides have decided we are going in two waves. I am in the second wave which would have been my choice anyway. I will leave base camp on May 19 which means summiting on May 23. This can change if the weather forecast changes. I am really excited.

Summit Attempt ...Maybe

2010-05-13T13:36:00.004-05:00

Robert has reported that there is a possibility of a weather window opening soon. The tentative plan is to leave Everest Base Camp for Camp 1 on the 18th or the 19th.

Robert is healthy and his knee is mending. Some of the group made a hike up to Camp 1 and back yesterday. His knee was better. He says he is getting a little bored with the waiting but it is part of the experience. His sat phone minutes are getting low so he won't call again until he has some news for us.

The Weather News

2010-05-12T15:41:00.002-05:00

Robert has said that the window to summit this week has closed. They will be waiting to see what next week brings and so will we. I will keep you posted.

Back to Everest Base Camp

2010-05-11T08:15:00.004-05:00

Robert has safely returned to Everest Base Camp and is presently waiting on the weather. There are 80 mph winds up high and it is not safe for anyone to consider a summit attempt at this time.

There may be one glimmer of hope for a summit attempt on May 17 . If this window remains open, Robert and Nima will move up to Camp 1 on the 13th and then up to Camp 2 on the 14th. This will put them in a good position to make a summit attempt on the 17th. If the weather window closes the next possible summit attempt will be over a week away.

Keeping busy and keeping warm are the main challenges for today. He has found a new hobby, searching the rocks around camp for interesting items. So far he has found a pair of 30 year old eye glasses. The late afternoons and evenings prove to be very chilly and do not allow for outdoor explorations. Robert has mostly gone back into his tent to read, work puzzles and sudokos. There are also plenty of movies and books in the media tent. Robert is extremely thankful for intermittent cell phone coverage which allows him to read texts from friends and family.

Camp 3 Paroramic Views

2010-05-05T11:01:00.003-05:00

I am happy to report that Robert has made it safely to Camp 3 with his faithful guide Nima Nuru. They are camped on the side of a cliff, perched on a carved out platform of ice and snow. A team of 6 Sherpas took several hours to have these flat surfaces ready for the tents. The drop off is 2,500 feet.

After a long 9 hour trek Robert and Nima were treated to a panoramic view. Robert says it is amazing to see Camp 2 below, the western cum and a myriad of mountains he named but I couldn't write them down fast enough.

Robert's knee is feeling much better. Thanks for your prayers and concern for him.

Final Acclimatization Excercise

2010-05-03T21:56:00.004-05:00

Robert is now back up at Camp 1. He said that the hike up was very difficult because his knee is painful. He is also has a bit of nausea.

The plan is to move up to Camp 2 tomorrow. The trail to this camp is not difficult and Robert is not concerned. However he is concerned with the trip to Camp 3 as it is a much more difficult trek up the Lhostse face. If his knee is still painful he may spend an extra day at Camp 2. You may want to re-read the post dated April 30 for details on Camp 3 written by Robert at the Gorak Shep Internet Cafe.

Robert is part of a non-guided group. This means he and his personal Sherpa guide can move at their own pace. He has the flexibility to move more quickly or to take an extra rest day if needed.There are 3 groups of non-guided. Robert is in the second of the three. There are no specific names for these groups.

New Snow at Base Camp

2010-05-01T21:10:00.003-05:00

Robert called to report that the final acclimatization exercise is postponed for today. The camp has received 5'' of new snow. The experts say it is better to wait a day, so that is exactly what Robert's group is doing. This will give his sore knee another day to recover.
Weather on Everest can be a real challenge so there are extra days built into the expedition plan to accommodate for the unexpected. Hopefully there won't be any other weather delays on this trip.

World's Highest Internet Cafe

2010-04-30T20:56:00.009-05:00

Hi Everyone,

I am currently in one of the rest phases between acclimatization rotations. Since humans aren't designed to live at high altitudes we need to approach them slowly in order for our bodies to adapt. One of the proven ways to do this is to climb up high for a few days and then come back down lower in order to recover. If one does this several times and goes higher each time, one eventually can go really high and be okay.

We climbed Lobuche East (about 19,500) on April 16, returned to the Everest Base Camp the following day and rested for several days. next, we climbed up through the Khumbu Ice Fall to Everest's Camp 1 at about 19,700' and spent two nights. We then went up to Camp 2 at 21,100' and spend another two nights before descending all the way to Base Camp again. This is where I am now, although I have walked two hours down to the tiny village of Gorak Shep at 17,000' to use the Internet. I think this must be the world's highest Internet cafe.

The Khumbu Ice Fall is often called the most dangerous part of the climb. It is a glacier that is funneled down through a narrow and steep valley which causes the ice to break up into huge chunks, often much bigger than a house. The ice is constantly in motion so an ice block can fall at any time and crush anyone in it's path. To add to the excitement there are some hanging glaciers high above the ice fall that can also avalanche from time to time. The strategy is to enter the ice fall by 4 or 5a.m. and get through it as fast as one can before the sun heats things up which makes the ice more active. Another challenge ones needs to face is the crossing of deep crevasses. These can be over 100'deep and quite wide. There is a team of Sherpas called the Ice Fall Doctors who establish the route, "fix" it with ropes to which one attaches via harness and a carabiner, and most importantly they haul aluminum ladders up there and use them as bridges over the crevasses. If the crevasse is too wide, they will lash multiple ladders together with rope. It is quite nerve wracking when first crossing on these "bridges", but I found I've gotten used to it.

I would be very remiss if I didn't mention the Sherpa people again. These people are so strong that is embarrassing for the rest of us mere mortals. They carry loads that we can't imagine, walk and climb at twice our speeds and never seem to tire. They are always cheerful and eager to help with any task big or small and are just fun to be around. There is not doubt that only a very small portion of Everest climbers would have any chance of climbing this enormous mountain without their help. My Sherpa guide is named Nima Nuru and I wish I could take him home with me. One would be hard pressed to find such a patient, kind and competent person. My slow pace must drive him insane, yet he never shows it. He leans down and picks up the rope for me every time I need to clip and unclip(scores of times in the ice fall), reminds me to put on my sunglasses when the sun comes up,insists on carrying anything of mine that he thinks might be heavy, helps me with my equipment such as crampons and checks on me in my tent in case I might need something. I have asked him to go ahead of me in the particularly dangerous portions of the ice fall, but he refuses saying we are a team. He is awesome!

In a day or two we will again climb to Camp 1 and Camp 2, but will then also go up to Camp 3 at about 24,000', two thirds of the way up the Lhostse face. That is the glaciated slope you can see behind me in the photo. It is a miserable camp site carved in the side of the mountain (by the super human Sherpas) where you must wear your crampons and be clipped to the ropes if you exit your tent because this is an absolute no-fall-zone. We will spend a night there before descending to Base Camp for a final rest. We then wait for good weather and make our summit attempt which will be six or seven days of constant climbing.

I am feeling great - my appetite is good, I am sleeping well and staying healthy. Beside the "Khumbu cough" which virtually everyone has, I have had a problem with my right knee. It started hurting a couple of nights ago for no apparent reason, but seem to be much better now. The Khumbu cough is caused by the cold, dry air, not a virus. It strikes me most when sitting and talking; the least when I am sleeping or climbing. I wear a buff (sort of a face mask) most of the day and night, removing it for eating and drinking or when really breathing hard on a steep section. Since everyone else is doing the same thing I joke that we look like a bunch of bank robbers.

Our base camp is quite nice - I know I have mentioned it before. I have my tent set up nicely and even have a "carpet" make from a blanket I bought on the way in. My tent is quite roomy. I have a piece of AstroTurf outside as my front lawn. Everyone uses pee bottles at night, so I guess we even have limited indoor plumbing.

We have a great team of people and I am getting along with all of them. There are people from the US (California), Canada, Singapore, Taiwan, Japan, Scotland, Greece, and the Czech Republic. Unfortunately, five members out of a total of 24 Everest climbers have quit due to illness or personal issues.

I am in need of fresh orange juice and Patty's cooking. I know I have lost at least ten pounds already and expect to lose another 20 before finishing.

I really can't answer each of your replies, due to the difficulties in getting to the Internet, but I love reading them and will eventually get back with you individually.

Thanks,
Robert

Base Camp Report, not so good.

2010-04-29T07:41:00.005-05:00

Robert plans have changed since the last post. He injured his right knee somehow and could hardly walk yesterday. He has been resting since and says it is a little better today. His plans to hike down to Gorak Shep have been postponed until tomorrow. He only has a small window of time to make the hike as the next acclimitization exercise is schedule for Saturday.

Several of his team members and members from other teams have abandoned the expedition. Some have left for health reasons and others for family emergencies. Robert is hopeful that he will be able to complete his goal. His knee must recover in order to move forward.

I will keep you informed as he reports to me. Have a wonderful day and keep Robert in your thoughts and prayers. Thanks.

There & Back Again, C2 to Everest Base

2010-04-27T09:44:00.005-05:00

Robert has been working on acclimatization and improving ice climbing skills by climbing on the Khumbu Ice Fall above C1 and then spending two days up at C2. He is now back at the Everest Base Camp.
He called this morning to tell me that he and some others will hike down to Gorak Shep for some more variety in the dinner menu, something other than noodles. The other reason for the hike is to have Internet access. He tells me that he has a full report to send to us. We may have some photos too.

Camp II

2010-04-24T22:18:00.003-05:00

Robert arrived at Camp II, got a good night's sleep and is probably eating breakfast or preparing for a short trek up to the ice with his group. When the hike is finished he will rest for the remainder of the day. Tomorrow he and the group will begin to move down to base camp.
Robert is not having any problem with the altitude although he said is is much colder than Camp I.

Camp 1, A Quality View

2010-04-22T06:30:00.005-05:00

Robert and his group arrived at Camp 1 at 11:30 p.m. cdt last night which is really about 11:30 a.m., Thursday morning. Robert is living in a time zone that is very close to 12 hours ahead of us.

The climb was difficult but well worth the effort. He said that the skys were clear and the temperature about +30 Fahrenheit. Camp I is at 19,700 feet. They will rest at this altitude for two days and then move up to Camp II. They will rest there for two more days and then head back down to Everest Base Camp. This rigorous itinerary is all part of the acclimatization process that is a necessary in preparation for the Everest summit attempt.

Except for the Kumbu cough (caused by dry, dusty high altitude air) Robert reports that he is feeling fine. His excitement at reaching another of the lesser goals of this expedition was evident in the tone of his voice. He is living his dream afterall!

Living in the suburbs of Everest Base Camp

2010-04-20T22:53:00.004-05:00

Robert's camp is located about a 10 minutes down the valley from the main Everest Base Camp. He says it is a much better location. The main came is very crowded and not very clean.

The group left early, 4:30 a.m. for an acclimatizing hike to the ice. The ice fall hike was very taxing. Robert said they made it about one third of the way up and then came back down. He reports no trouble negotiating the bridge ladder walk over the crevasses.

His rest day was spent reading and doing crosswords. He says it is very cold at night but as soon as the sun hits his tent it is hot.

Tomorrow they leave for Camp 1 for two nights and then on to Camp 2 for two nights.

Robert is feeling well and strong. He is amazed at the vastness of the area that is the Everest region.

Everest Base to Lobuche Base & Back

2010-04-17T18:51:00.005-05:00

Received from Robert on Saturday April 17 at 1:36 a.m. CDT

We are on the way back from Lobuche base camp to Everest base camp. Yesterday we climbed to the false summit of Lobuche. The real summit is way out on a very exposed ridge with huge cornices and no fixed ropes so it very seldom visited. It was a pretty challenging climb, with us leaving at 4 a.m. It involved a lot of time on fixed ropes climbing some very steep ice. The views were magnificent in all directions and the weather was perfect.

Our meal last night was very good and it felt nice to be "down" at 16,000 feet for sleeping.

I would be remiss if I didn't say a little about the Sherpa people and the porters (frequently not Sherpas, but other local tribes). These people are always happy and eager to help. They carry unbelievable loads on tump lines (a strap across their forehead). Yesterday three guys carried down the gear bags for about 18 people from our high camp to our low camp about 1,100 feet lower. Each guy carried five gear bags! I tried picking up one of the loads and I estimated it at 200 pounds. They do this with sandals for foot ware on steep rocky trails.

Robert is now back at his home camp and will call with another update when possible.

Everest Base Camp

2010-04-13T00:55:00.004-05:00

Hello Everyone,

No, the photo at your left is not the camp, just kidding! Robert took this pic a couple of days ago on one of the trails. Amazing scenery.

The 17,500 foot Everest Base Camp is actually quite luxurious. Robert reports that there are 4 dining tents, shower tents, a communications tent with computers, a recreation tent complete with movies and of course several necessaries tents. Robert also is delighted that the food quality is excellent. There are many support people involved in this expedition. The guides estimate the camp population at approximately 400.

These Sherpa guides have been preparing for the arrival of their group for several weeks. One of the projects they completed was a rock base for each tent. The rock layer adds extra protection from melting snow and ice. Robert has his own personal tent which is common in his group.

It is a 2 hour walk one way for internet service so Robert doesn't plan to make that trip often. We will continue to rely on the 2 minute satelite phone calls for updates.

Thanks for following along with me,
Patty

I love technology!

2010-04-10T23:57:00.000-05:00

I am happy to report that I was wrong about internet access. We are now in Gorak Shep (Nepali for Dead Crow - nice!) and they have internet access here. Gorak Shep is the last village before base camp, about 1 1/2 hours on foot, so I will come down here on my rest days to check my email and give you a first hand report of how things are progressing.

Yesterday we took an active rest day and climbed up to about 17,000 on a ridge above the Italian Research station and this morning we hiked from Lobuche to Gorak Shep. We will spend the night here and move to base camp tomorrow. We will climb Kalla Pattar this afternoon to take some more Everest sunset pictures. The Sherpas will be holding their Puja ceremony tomorrow - they are asking the mountain god to protect them on the climb.

The following day we descend past both Gorak Shep and Lobuche and go to the Lobuche base camp. (Lobuche is both a village and a mountain so it is a little confusing). The day after that we move to the Lobuche high camp and then on Thursday we hopefully will summit Lobuche and return to its base camp. Friday will be a long hard day as we move all the way back up the valley to the Everest base camp.

I am feeling very good and am eating well, although sometimes the food is a little bland. There is a cold passing among the group, but I have avoided it so far.

Greetings from Loubche

2010-04-09T08:38:00.006-05:00

Hello Everyone,

I will be Robert's communications liaison for the next few weeks. Robert will be calling from a sat phone and I will relay his reports to all of you fellow arm chair travelers.

Robert left Pheriche, a quaint village at 14,000 feet, yesterday and is now at Loubche, 16,200 feet. They will stay here two nights. On the hike up, the group passed a chortens (memorial) to Scott Fischer who died in 1996 on his Everest attempt.

It is quite a bit cooler at 16,200 ft. so Robert needs to wear a jacket when not in the main room of the hotel. He is sharing a room with two others. It must be a tiny room as they need to leave their gear in the hallway. Robert is very healthy although several others have developed colds and have miscellaneous other complaints.

When he called he was outside looking at a magnificent sunset over Nuptse. The call lasted about 1 minute, after several attempts to get a good connection, so that is all I have to report.

We will be depending on satelite phone communication from now on and the coverage can be less dependable than normal so I will report as I hear from Robert. Don't be concerned if there isn't a post every day. Robert will call when he has a signal.

Those who are on the e-mail list will also receive a GPS "Spot" report on occasion. Robert's position on the map will be marked. My favorite map is the satelite map. You can click for that application in the upper right hand corner. On the left sidebar there are often photos to click on. I have found that particularly interesting as the photo pops up on a location on the map which I assume is where the photo was taken. Cool.

Enjoy your day. It is a beautiful one here in NE.
Patty

Hiked to Debuche

2010-04-05T03:53:00.002-05:00

We left Namche Bazaar this morning and hiked to Tengboche (best bakery in the entire Khumbu region - I had a brownie and a slice of lemon pie) and then descended to Debuche. The weather has been beautiful with blue skies every day. We plan to stay here for two nights and then move up to Pheriche which is at 14,000'. We have been deliberately going slowly to acclimatize.

Debuche is a tiny little village - nothing like Namche Bazaar which is the biggest village in the Khumbu. There are lots of shops there along with bakeries, money changers, pharmacies, etc. I think Debuche only has a handful of buildings, although we are staying in quite a nice place.

I have noticed that some of the postings are in tiny font and occasionally in different colors. I don't know why this is happening. I have played around with the formatting options and they don't seem to help. Sorry.

Enjoying life in Namche Bazaar

2010-04-04T07:09:00.002-05:00

Today we took a hike up to a small village above Namche Bazaar and then continued up to a memorial for Sir Edmund Hillary who died a couple of years ago and his wife and daughter who died in 1975 in a plane crash. The Hillary family had planned to spend a year in Nepal building schools and a hospital when this tragedy took their lives. The memorials (called chortens) are way up very high on a narrow ridge with beautiful views all around.

We then descended back to Khunde, visited the hospital that Hillary built, walked to Kumjung and toured one of the many schools that Hillary built, continued on to a bakery and enjoyed some great conversation and pastries. I then walked with Lien, a friend from Singapore to the Everest View Hotel where we enjoyed a nice lunch before returning to our hotel in Namche Bazaar. Since we hadn't eaten in almost two hours, we got some pizza! Now I am off to dinner. Five meals a day seems like a nice lifestyle!

Tomorrow morning we will walk four or five hours to Tengboche and visit the monastery and bakery before walking a little further to Debuche for a two-day rest. We are moving higher in slow steps to avoid altitude related problems.

Taking it easy in Namche Bazaar

2010-04-02T06:44:00.002-05:00

Yesterday we flew from Kathmandu to Lukla and it was almost too easy to be true. The normal situation involves hours of waiting, rumors of the flights being canceled due to bad weather, and absolute chaos everywhere. Yesterday we left the hotel at 5:15 am, arrived at the airport at 5:30 and waited outside for about 15 minutes while someone got out boarding passes. We then took our bags to the check in counter, went through the non-existent security (they just looked at us and waived us through!) and we were airborne by 6:30 and in Lukla by 7:10. We had to wait till 9 because two of the bags missed the plane and then we were off.

We strolled to Lukla, stopping on the way for a nice lunch and were there by about 1 in the afternoon. My room had its own bathroom (very unusual in the Khumbu, or anywhere else in Nepal outside of Kathmandu and Pokhara) and I enjoyed a nice shower and just relaxed all afternoon. Today we hiked to Namche Bazaar and it only took 3 1/2 hours if you don't count our 2 hour lunch! I took another shower, turned in my dirty clothes to be washed and enjoyed a nice pastry and now I am waiting for dinner! Life so far is very easy.

I met a lady in our hotel from Perth, my hometown in Australia. She and her husband are accompanying their son to Base Camp and he will be climbing Everest.

We will spend three nights here in Namche Bazaar to do a little acclimatizing and then we move again.

I love Nepal!

2010-03-31T05:37:00.002-05:00

I enjoyed my day roaming the streets of Kathmandu and especially Thamel, the area best known by tourists and visitors. It really is almost impossible to describe until you have actually been here. Thamel is a maze of crowded narrow streets lined with tiny shops selling used climbing gear, fake climbing gear, Tibetan carpets, travel agencies, small hotels, restaurants, internet cafes, art stores, etc. You are constantly being approached by the store keepers to "come and have a look". The streets are dirty, car horns are continually blaring, and you need to be constantly vigilant to avoid being hit by a car, motorcycle, rickshaw or bicycle.

There are kids playing, guys wandering around on the side of the road trying to sell you trinkets from a bag they are carrying, people hanging out chatting or reading the paper, generators running continuously because of frequent power outages and just general, complete chaos. However you quickly get plugged into the rhythm and it all seems quite reasonable. It is fun and exciting and so completely different from life in America and you truly feel like you are in an adventure.

I went to a restaurant I enjoyed last time I was here called the Roadhouse Cafe and had a tandoori chicken pizza. It wasn't as good as I remembered, but still fun.

Our group has people from the US, Canada, South Africa, Greece, Taiwan, Singapore and I know I am forgetting one more country. We leave at 5 tomorrow morning for Lukla and then a leisurely three hour walk to Phakding, our first stop. The following day (Friday) we walk to Namche Bazaar, and climb the infamous Namche Hill, about a 2,500 non-stop climb that claims a lot of people who didn't get into shape before they came to Nepal. Don't forget that the time in Nepal is 10 hours and 45 minutes later than central time in the US.

2010-03-30T19:30:00.003-05:00

Monday, March 29
Robert arrived in New Delhi with no delays and no luggage problems. He says that the city has really changed. There are many more modern roads and beautiful high rise buildings. We were able to talk via "magic jack".

Tuesday, March 30
Robert left a message at about 10:30 a.m.CDT. He is now in Kathmandu and arrived there with no problems.

The adventure has begun. Thanks for coming along!

Patty

Leaving on a jet plane...

2010-03-28T08:30:00.001-05:00

I am heading to the airport in a few minutes for the start of the greatest adventure of my life. I am fully packed and feeling great. I did a mini workout yesterday afternoon, finished all my "honey-dos", went to church and dinner with Patty and Soni and now there is nothing left to do but do it!

I will update you when I get to Kathmandu.

My Sherpa Guide

2010-03-24T09:13:00.003-05:00

I leave in four days for Everest and am very excited to report that my climbing Sherpa partner is Nima Nuru. He is 38 years old, has alot of experience including Everest, and he looks like a nice guy. IMG will be posting a picture of Nima and a brief bio on their website shortly - www.mountainguides.com.

I plan to spend this morning packing so that I am completely ready with no last minute panics.

I was interviewed last Thursday by Channel 10/11 news and it will be aired tonight on the news and will be on their website for some time to come. You should be able to find it under Lance's journal at http://www.1011now.com/lancesjournal.

There will also be an interview with me on AM1240 KFOR this coming Monday with Dale Johnson, although you can hear it now. The address is http://www.kfor1240.com/Lincoln-Live-with-Dale-Johnson/4463324, look for "Climbing Mount Everest".

I'm really getting excited, but also a little nervous!

Quick climb in Colorado

2010-03-17T00:05:00.000-05:00

I went to Copper Mountain last week with Patty, Chris and his new girlfriend and had a great time. Chris skied with me on Thursday and it was one of the finest days of resort skiing that I can remember. We enjoyed knee deep powder on almost every run and there were hardly any people there so we skied right to the lift every run. It was even better because I could spend the day with Chris. He is becoming a very good skier and is a lot of fun to ski with.

I went to Vail on Friday and skied with some friends from my gym and had another fantastic day.

I got up Saturday intending to ski at Copper again, but instead I decided to go climb something. The closest 14er that I hadn't climbed yet was Mt Sherman, so I went there. My late decision resulted in an 11:30 start time and since it is winter, the road was closed about 1.5 miles before you actually start up the mountain. I skinned up this section pretty quickly and then skinned up to the top, stopping briefly two times for a quick snack and drink of water. I summitted at 3 pm and skied down to the car by 4. It was a really tough descent as the skies clouded up and the light went flat. The snow consisted of frozen wind ridges, hard pack and breakable crust. Since I was alone I couldn't risk any trouble so I took things very carefully. In spite of these challenges, I was glad to ski down since it is so much faster than walking back down.

Channel 10/11 (local tv station) has scheduled an interview with me on Thursday afternoon and KFOR 1240 AM has invited me onto their morning show next week. I feel like my 15 minutes of fame is upon me!

My gym (Madonna ProActive) has asked me to give a slide show next Tuesday at 5:30 in case anyone wants to attend. Call the gym to verify the time as it isn't 100% nailed down yet.

I leave in 12 days and feel like I am truly prepared. I know that I will miss my family and really should be at work, but I will call every day or so and keep in touch as much as possible. Stay tuned!

Newspaper story

2010-03-07T09:42:00.001-06:00

Well, it is exactly three weeks until I leave for Everest and I am only getting more excited. I was interviewed by our local newspaper, The Lincoln Journal Star and they ran a very nice story about me in today's (Sunday) paper. You can link to it at http://www.journalstar.com/news/local/article_f7c538de-297b-11df-a039-001cc4c03286.html. The writer did a very thorough job and I am very pleased with the results.

I have also been interviewed by the gym where I work out and they will be doing a story on my climbing in the next few days. Their website is http://madonna.org/proactive_health/index.html.

I continue my workouts very diligently and have been adding a little more to my routine each week. I am also sleeping in a hypoxic tent over my bed. I started this almost three weeks ago at 12,000' and now am sleeping at about 15,500'. I also spend 30 to 60 minutes each night wearing a face mask at 21,000'. I am doing this because I have struggled with eating when I am at really high altitudes and hope that this extra time acclimatizing helps.

Eagerly awaiting March 28

2010-02-23T18:00:00.000-06:00

Welcome to my first post documenting the fulfillment of my life-long dream of climbing Mt Everest. My name is Robert Kay and I am the owner of Star City Motor Sports in Lincoln, Nebraska. I have a wife and two kids and a love for anything to do with mountains. To be honest, I am not a highly accomplished climber, rather I am a skier who climbs and has enough experience that I feel comfortable attempting Mt Everest. I've been to the base camp in 2008 and look forward to returning again next month.

You can climb along with me and enjoy all the adventure without the suffering and cold. My goal is to climb Mt Everest this spring, hopefully reaching the summit in mid to late May and placing the Star City Motor Sports flag on top thus establishing beyond doubt that we are the World's Top Motorcycle Dealer.

I leave March 28 and will post as frequently as time and technology allow.

In order to prepare for this trip I have already climbed five of the world's seven summits in the last 14 months. In order, I climbed Aconcagua, Denali, Elbrus, Kilimanjaro and Vinson. I spend two to three hours every day in the gym lifting and climbing the stairmaster with an 80 pound backpack.